New Zealand farm working dogs 11 The Law and your Dog

 By Dr Clive Dalton

The law

Ownership of a working dog carries with it some clearly-defined legal responsibilities under current legislation.  Your main responsibilities are to:

·      Make sure a dog is registered and that the certificate is in a secure place and readily available.

·      Have collars, discs, or tags for all dogs and make sure they wear them at all times.

·      Notify any change of address, either permanent or temporary if you move, or if you sell the dog.

·      Ensure discs or labels are not tampered with.

·      Present all dogs for treatment for hydatids as required.

·      Keep dogs under control at all times.

·      Make certain dogs are well housed.

·      Ensure dogs are well fed.

The dog is also covered under legislation that states that an animal must be provided with adequate food, water, and shelter, and given adequate exercise.  Ill-treating your dog or cruelly ill-treating it is an offence under the law.

Registration

All dogs must be registered annually with a "territorial authority" such as a borough council, county council, district council or city council, or a hydatids and dog control authority acting on behalf of these.  All farm dogs over 3 months of age must be registered. 

The fees vary with each territorial authority and some charge lower fees for working dogs and neutered dogs.  You are not allowed to shop round for the cheapest authority - you register your dog where you live! 

Proof of ownership, other than the owners certificate is the label or disc that the dog should wear at all times.  This shows:

·      The territorial authority where the dog is registered.

·      Year of registration, also shown by the colour of the tag.

·      The dogs ownership number.

New collars can be purchased from the authority.  Old ones can be used provided the current label or tag is firmly attached.  If a collar or disc is lost, you can apply to the authority for a replacement and youll have to pay for it. 

Remember that if a dog is found without a collar, it will be "deemed as unregistered" until you can prove the contrary.

Selling a dog

When selling a dog, if its under 3 months of age, there is no obligation to register it before sale.  If you sell the dog when over 3 months of age you must notify the territorial authority in writing within 14 days that the dog has been sold.  Theres no fee charged for change of ownership. 

When selling a dog you must:

·      Give the new owner a current treatment certificate showing that the dog has been treated for hydatids in the last 42 days.

·      Provide the authority with the name and address of the new owner and the address where the dog in normally kept.

Buying a dog

If you buy a dog under 3 months of age, the vendor doesnt have to produce a hydatids treatment certificate.  As a new owner you must:

·      Register the dog before its 3 months old

·      If over 3 months old, get the original owner to provide a certificate to show the dog has been treated for hydatids in the last 42 days.

·      Notify the territorial authority in writing within 14 days of purchase the name of the authority the dog came from.

Moving with your dog

If you move within the same territorial authority, then notify the territorial authority of your address change, in writing, within 14 days .

If you move to a new authority, notify them in writing within 6 weeks of moving where the dog came from.   Then inform the authority you have just left that youve moved, and give them the new address where the dog is kept.  It would pay to do this in writing too.

These two situations are important for stockpersons doing casual work and for those having dogs on trial before purchase.  Its also important for people traveling outside their district to always carry their dogs hydatids treatment certificate. It should show that treatment has been carried out within the last 42 days.

Control of dogs

This part of the act is important for farm dogs.  It covers the fact that dogs must be kept under control at all times.  If a dog is considered to be out of control, then a number of things can happen.  Important examples are:

·      A Dog Control Officer can impound it.

·      The occupier of the land on which the dog is found can impound it.

·      If the dog is in a public place from which dogs are prohibited, anyone can seize the dog, or arrange for it to be seized and impounded.

·      Anyone can impound a dog (or dogs) if they consider it to be causing distress, annoyance, and damage to property other than the owners.

The occupier of land where a dog causes a nuisance can either return the dog to its owner or hand it over to a Dog Control Officer or Dog Ranger.

Barking dogs

If a barking dog has been reported to a Dog Control Officer or Dog Ranger, and there are reasonable grounds to believe that its barking constitutes a nuisance, an officer or ranger can:

·      Enter the land or premises (other than a dwelling house) at any reasonable time to inspect the conditions under which the dog is kept.

·      Give the owner a written notice requiring him/her to abate the nuisance or remove the dog.  The owner may object within 7 days.

Disqualification from ownership

A territorial authority may apply to a court to disqualify a person from owning a dog if convicted of a range of listed offences in the legislation.

Dogs attacking people or livestock or rushing at vehicles

Anyone who sees a dog attack stock or poultry, or who is themselves attacked, can either seize the dog or destroy it immediately.  Note that police dogs are exempt!  Once you have seized the dog, you must hand it over to its owner or to a Dog Control Officer or Ranger.

If you cannot catch the dog, you may call a police officer who can shoot it.  It need not be caught in the act for this to happen, but the office must have reasonable ground for believing the attacks took place.

The police officer is empowered to destroy the dog only if he/she is unable to seize it.

Dangerous dogs at large

It is an offence for owners of a dangerous dog to have it at large without a suitable muzzle.  A "dangerous dog" is one that has attacked people, stock, poultry or property of any kind.  If you keep it in a vehicle or cage, then this is acceptable.

Destroying dangerous dogs

A court can order the owner of a dangerous dog either to keep it under proper restraint or make an order for it to be destroyed.

Seizure or destruction of a dog found at large among livestock

If a dog is found running at large among livestock or poultry, the owner may either seize a dog or destroy it.  Owners can also request their "agent", a constable, a Dog Control Officer or Ranger to do this on their behalf.

If seized the dog must be returned to its owner or delivered into the custody of a Dog Control Officer or Ranger.

Dogs seen worrying livestock

If a dog has been seen worrying livestock of poultry, the owner may make a complaint to the District Court.  The court as a result may make an order of restraint or an order to destroy the dog.

Liability of the owner for damage

The owner of a dog is liable for all damage done by the animal.

Dog control bylaws

A territorial authority can make bylaws for a range of purposes.  Those of interest to farm dog owners are:

·      Prescribing minimum standards for accommodation of dogs.

·      Limiting the number of dogs kept on land or premises.

·      Requiring dogs to be tied up during the hours of darkness.

Read more

The Science Surrounding Children Dogs Part 2 The Bad

I hope you had a Happy Thanksgiving Julie!

(source)

I’m not exactly sure what that means, as we don’t celebrate it in Australia, but I hope you had a great time with your family and friends all the same!

Thanks for all those fantastic resources you included in your last blog post. It was also great to see some extras posted by readers in the comments section. 

(source)

Last time I looked at ‘The Good’ of some the science surrounding children and dogs. This post, it’s time to cover some of the ‘The Bad’. 

What can possibly be bad about children and dogs? Well, dogs don’t live as long as us, for one.

When dogs die

(source)

Having established last time that dogs can benefit kids’ confidence, self-belief, trust, respect and heaps of other positive attitudes and behaviours, I was left wondering how losing a pet dog impacts children. Loss of a companion animal can be a devastating event for people of any age.

Humans don’t all experience grief equally.

Our understanding of death is linked to our developmental state, but young children can still feel pain at the loss of a family dog. For many children, the death of a pet dog will be their first experience with this kind of loss and grief. Pet dogs can be almost-constant companions for children, and have been assigned a role in reflected appraisal similar to that of a best friend.

Psychologists encourage parents/guardians to explain death to kids sensitively and with honesty. Adults should answer questions simply, using clear and accurate information and avoid the desire to ‘protect’ children from death by hiding the truth of a pet’s illness or euthanasia. This is because children with active imaginations may create scenarios about the death that are far worse than reality. 

Adults should allow children to express their grief (through verbal, artistic or written expression; reading stories about the death of pets, etc.), acknowledging the importance of the relationship lost (rather than trivializing the death or running to buy a new puppy) and helping children to understand that grief is a normal and natural emotion that helps us cope with death.

Sometimes bad can be good

(source)

Some psychologists believe that such trauma (with a successful associated recovery) can strengthen our capacity to deal with future stress and adversity. 

This is referred to as psychological resilience and is considered a desirable and healthy process as it enables a person, or in this case a child, to develop coping strategies and support networks (friends, adults, family, etc.) that will serve them in difficult times later in life.

Your dog is a zoo-

Zoo noses? (source)

Its true (when youre using zo/zoo- as a prefix to indicate animals are involved). And its about noses. Not noses-noses, that would be silly. Im talking about Zoonoses. As in diseases that can transfer from animals to people. As in from a dog to a child. Theyre not pretty. 

Research has shown that people can be generally uninformed about some of the most common zoonotic diseases (e.g. common roundworm eggs readily transfer between dogs and people; the worm larvae can decide to live in the back of childrens eyes which can lead to blindness - people should know that!)

(source)

I suggest that if any of your dog-owning friends with children arent aware of the risks of zoonotic diseases, they run an online search for dogs zoonosis [insert country of residence] so they can read up on what parasite control and other measures can be used in their neck of the globe to reduce the risk of zoonoses. 

(source)

Maintaining good child and dog health and hygiene should be a no-brainer. Did you know dogs can catch things from kids too? Thats called reverse zoonosis. 

And to think sharing is something I normally praise my toddler for!

I hope you’ll grit your teeth and stick with me for my third post about the science surrounding children and dogs. 

You’ve seen The Good and now The Bad – next time, Im going to bring out The Ugly. Ill also touch on what science has to say about our childhood experience with dogs influencing us as adults. 

What do you reckon your childhood experiences with Arf contributed to your adult attitudes?

Take care,

Mia

Further reading:

Gerwolls M.K. & Labott S.M. (1994). Adjustment to the Death of a Companion Animal, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 7 (3) 172-187. DOI: 10.2752/089279394787001826

Serpell J.A. (1981). Childhood Pets and their Influence on Adults Attitudes, Psychological Reports, 49 (2) 651-654. DOI: 10.2466/pr0.1981.49.2.651

Davis J.H. (1987). Preadolescent Self-Concept Development and Pet Ownership, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 1 (2) 90-94. DOI: 10.2752/089279388787058614

Van Houtte B.A. & Jarvis P.A. (1995). The role of pets in preadolescent psychosocial development, Journal of Applied Developmental Psychology, 16 (3) 463-479. DOI: 10.1016/0193-3973(95)90030-6

Bryant B.K. (1990). The Richness of the Child-Pet Relationship: A Consideration of Both Benefits and Costs of Pets to Children, Anthrozoos: A Multidisciplinary Journal of The Interactions of People & Animals, 3 (4) 253-261. DOI: 10.2752/089279390787057469

Kaufman K.R. & Kaufman N.D. (2006). And Then the Dog Died, Death Studies, 30 (1) 61-76. DOI: 10.1080/07481180500348811

Bonanno G.A. (2004). Loss, Trauma, and Human Resilience: Have We Underestimated the Human Capacity to Thrive After Extremely Aversive Events?, American Psychologist, 59 (1) 20-28. DOI: 10.1037/0003-066X.59.1.20

Bingham G.M., Budke C.M. & Slater M.R. (2010). Knowledge and perceptions of dog-associated zoonoses: Brazos County, Texas, USA, Preventive Veterinary Medicine, 93 (2-3) 211-221. DOI: 10.1016/j.prevetmed.2009.09.019

© Mia Cobb 2012

Read more

Dogs Cats Cats Working Dogs Working Dogs Emotions

Hi Julie!

What a busy week I’ve found myself having! 

Very productive indeed, with a lot of this:

and some more of that:

 Fuelled by a ton of this:

But I did take time to notice that your cat Josh broke something new.  Oh Josh! 

Thanks for telling me about your ISHAR presentation about dogs and cats in the home.  I can definitely relate to the importance of early socialisation = best chance at harmony. Take my dog Elke, for example.

As a pup, she met and spent time around mature cat Bobby (who opted to ignore her for the most part).

Elke grew up around cats and kittens.

Then she helped me raise a bunch of Shelter foster kittens until they were old enough to be adopted.

By the time Tonto came to live with us as permanent family member, she was an old hand in living around cats. And when Caleb later joined us as a young adult dog, Tonto was pretty relaxed around dogs. He tended to be confident in interactions; not running away (importantly, not triggering any chase responses from our new dog).

Elke ably demonstrating in top image that a cat is not worth waking up for.

Gidget and some enthusiastic GDs

This was also true when we brought a new kennel cat into the Training Kennel and Vet Clinic facility I managed at Guide Dogs Victoria (GDV). We selected a kitten from the Shelter who was outgoing and confident around people and dogs. We then set her up in the main foyer of our facility to have a slow and positive introduction to the visiting puppies and dogs that we could control to maximise the positives for all the animals. 

Gidget now plays an important role at GDV helping to desensitise the dogs to cats by reducing their level of interest and distraction. If their key learning experiences about cats with Gidget are boring, they associate future cats with boring and will be less likely to want to chase them. 

Important when you are a working Guide Dog. Or a Police Dog. Or any number of other types of working dogs. Working Dog kennel cats are really common!

(source)

GDV Puppy Class (source)

Gidget also attends the puppy socialisation classes, wearing her harness and lead so puppies can be encouraged at an early age to stay calm around cats. A resident kennel cat also means that a friendly cat is readily available to assess a dog’s level of cat distraction or participate in training sessions to improve Guide Dog-appropriate responses to the presence of a cat.  

Or help out with photo shoots around Valentines Day. You know how it goes!

(source) Gidget loves photo shoots. Even if they arent (supposed to be) about her!

Gidget would spend her downtime in my office, asleep next to my computer monitor. We were good workmates and I miss her jaunty greetings and blissed out purrs! 

My regular desktop view when working at GDV

One thing about not sharing an office with Gidget any more is that it’s giving me more time to analyse all my PhD data about working dogs in kennel facilities. 

I’ve been busy number-crunching this week ahead of the RSPCA Australia Scientific Seminar later this month. My presentation is titled ‘Working Like a Dog – Affectively’. I’ll be talking about how affective states (a.k.a emotions) relate to working dogs, their welfare and performance. What is the affective experience for a working dog?  How can we tell? What things should we be considering to give working dogs a ‘life worth living’ (or better!) while they are working to help us humans?

RSPCA Scientific Seminar 2013

Professor David Mellor will be chairing the seminar and giving a presentation titled ‘Coping, cognition and quality of life improvement’ which I’m looking forward to hearing. Mellor’s based in New Zealand and I’ve enjoyed listening to him at other conferences. I am very interested in the work he’s been involved with in translating animal welfare science into practical animal welfare standards and outcomes in collaboration with the NZ government. It’s going to be a fun day!

Speaking of fun – aren’t you at Science Online’s 2013 event this week? I’m following #scio13 on Twitter and pretending I’m there too!

Mia

Further reading:

Mellor D.J. & Bayvel A.C.D. (2008). New Zealands inclusive science-based system for setting animal welfare standards, Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 113 (4) 313-329. DOI: 10.1016/j.applanim.2008.01.010

Mellor D. (2012). Animal emotions, behaviour and the promotion of positive welfare states, New Zealand Veterinary Journal, 60 (1) 1-8. DOI: 10.1080/00480169.2011.619047

© Mia Cobb 2012

Read more

Introducing a New Dog Part 2

Todays article was Introducing a New Dog Part 1 so you might want to read that first before reading part 2.

If your having trouble with your new dog and your dog not getting along, there are some things you can do. One thing to keep in mind though, is how bad are they not getting along? If they really dont like each other, is it fair to either of them to keep this new dog? If they arent getting along at all, even though there are things we can do, you will probably not be able to trust the two together. Is this something your willing to take on?

First thing we can do, is introduce both dogs to the Clicker. Make sure both dogs understand what the click means, bring them into the same area, but far apart from each other. Youll need another person to help you, each of you handling each dog. You want to click and reward each time the dog looks away from the other dog. Once your dog is focusing on you, more than the other dog you can move in closer. Continue clicking and rewarding each dog for ignoring the other dog.

You want to move in closer very slowly, inches at a time. Once your able to be about 5-10 feet from each other, start walking both dogs, keeping that distance between you. Keep clicking and rewarding for the dogs not paying any attention to the other dog. Youll have to use your own judgment here on when to move closer together. You only want to move closer when both dogs are doing really good on focusing on you. Remember, dogs are dogs and an attack can break out at any time. If your uncomfortable with this and really bad about reading dog body language, I recommend getting a professional to help you.

As you get closer, make sure the dogs are focusing on you. If dogs are doing extremely well, face one dogs butt towards the other one, click and reward the dog and keep his head occupied. You should pet him, holding his neck so he cant turn to bite the other dog. If hes being good you should also be treating him with your other hand. Let the other dog sniff him and be sure to reward that dog for good behavior too, not showing any sign of dominance. Now do the same with the other dog, letting that dog sniff. After doing this, please dont think both dogs are fine now and you can just let them play. You want to continue this for a few weeks, and. Go different places and practice, practice in the house, practice having dogs do obedience or tricks while in the same room. You want to do this until each dog is no longer showing ANY aggression signs towards each other. Even then you have to really watch them.

I highly recommend a professional to help you through this.

You might look into Its Me or the Dog: How to Have the Perfect Pet, if your familiar with the TV show Its Me or the Dog, this is a book written by Victoria herself. I have not read it, so I dont know if it covers anything pertaining to introducing two dogs to each other. I do know Victoria follows this method of introducing dogs though.

Another that might help you is Cesars Rules: Your Way to Train a Well-Behaved Dog. Another favorite among many is Cesar Millan. Though I have read one of Cesars books and it was a good read, I havent read this one. So once again I dont know if it would help you with introducing dogs or not.

Heres one Ive recommended before and will recommend many more times is Don Sullivans The Perfect Dog. Since the DVD on Amazon is so high priced, this time Ive linked you directly to the thane website where you can find lots of information on Don and his products. Watch videos and read testimonials. Once again I have his system myself and promise you, this is the real deal. I will say once again if you are all about positive reinforcement training and clicker training, you will NOT be happy with his system. He doesnt use treats at all and relies on a system of praise, toys, and freedom, along with discipline. If treats and clickers arent working for you, get his system. This system WILL help you in introducing two dogs and much more. You will be happy with how much information you will gain from his 2 DVD set. Here are a couple of videos to show you what I mean:





I have done his method on introducing several dogs, and yes they actually do respond exactly how the dogs in those videos do. It can be done.

Hopefully you find something that works for you and you can get your dogs doing good together. Dog aggression is difficult to explain when writing, and can be unethical to give tips when you havent seen the situation. I recommend educating yourself, and getting help from a Professional if your having trouble with your dogs. Find a method that works for you, if one method isnt working, try another one. Not all training methods work for every dog.

Also, we now have our own online store. Go to the link on the right and feel free to browse through.

Read more

New Zealand Farm working Dogs 2 Buying a dog

By Dr Clive Dalton
 

Buying a dog can be a very worrying experience, especially if your current dog has just died or been killed.  You generally want a good dog that will work for you within 24 hours - and be as good if not better than the old friend you are still grieving. 

A pup

You cannot look at a pup and predict with any accuracy what it will turn out to be.  There is a lot of folklore on this such as taking the boldest pup in the litter, the one with black on the roof of its mouth, the bitchs favorite, and so on is not reliable.

Dog handlers often stress that you should take a pup that you like, because you have to build a close bond with it over the 10 years or so youll be together.  Thats got to be very sound advice.

Always go to a reputable breeder, rely on the pedigree if there is one, or ask to see the parents working.  There is no official breed society for working dogs but if dogs win trials, they can if the owner wishes, be entered in the stud book of the NZ Dog Trials Association.  You dont get in there by your looks, you have to give public displays of your work to get there.

Half-broken dog

This is a dog that has started to work - but beware!  It may be one that has stopped again!  Or it may be a dog that has had a relationship bust-up with its boss, and there may be deep scars, that may cause problems for new owners.

There are many dog handlers who do especially well taking (often for free) dogs that other handlers were going to shoot, so its not all bad news.  You many have the skills to form a good relationship with such a dog.  Just realise what is involved, and beware of what you may NOT have been told about the dog.

So just check the reason for selling.  If in doubt consult a member of your nearest branch of the NZ Sheep Dog Trial Association (SDTA).

Fully-trained dog bought privately

This is often the best option for a beginner as a reputable breeder will guarantee the dog.  This means that he/she will replace the dog or offer you the money back.  Check this before you buy.  Theyll show you the dog working on their farm (for as long as you like), but remember the importance of the bond created between owner and dog.  You will not get the same performance from the dog until you build a similar bond.  Thats why the guarantee is important.

Many breeders will give you details of the commands, either with a demo or a tape recording or both.  Itll take time for the dog to learn new sounds, as you will never be able to mimic the old commands to perfection.  The dog doesnt understand English, it only recognises sounds.

A fully-trained dog may appear costly - but just remember how many hours have gone into its training and the costs of feeding and care.  Work out the purchase price over an expected working life of 5-7 years and a top dog is always a bargain.   Again if concerned, get someone from your local SDTA to help you.

Dog bought at a sale

Special dog sales are common and there are sometimes dogs are put up at farm dispersal sales.  The points made above apply.  The only problem with a sale is that you wont have unlimited time to see the dog work.  It may only get a quick run around some friendly sheep and give a couple of barks and a leg cock.  You may not see all its strengths or weaknesses.  It may not have time to grab a sheep by the jugular or hang on a bulls tail.

And you never know what the final price may be if someone else likes it!  If youre forced to buy at a sale, get someone from your local DTA to guide you.

Which sex?

There is a wide range of opinion here.  A male dog is often preferred, as they dont come on heat and get pregnant so need time off work.  The odd bit of wandering they do is not a mortal sin unless they worry a few sheep on the way home.   Getting a bitch pregnant is seen as their good luck rather than the bitchs misfortune.  Youll always get a pick from the resulting litter even if the bitchs owner is not very pleased.

Some people prefer a bitch because they are a softer nature and maybe less headstrong.  These points are debatable and differences in temperament are often strain differences rather than sex.

Bitches these days can be prevented from coming on heat by hormone treatment.  De-sexing of working dogs (by castration) and bitches (by spaying) not needed for breeding is not popular, as many believe it makes them more prone to put on fat and get sluggish.  Current veterinary opinion is that desexing working dogs has no bad effect on their working ability.  They get plenty of exercise so obesity is not a problem.

Which colour?

 
Not an important issue.  Shepherds like a dog that is easy to see at long distances.  You would think that white would be an ideal colour, but shepherds reckon it looks too much like a sheep, and the sheep get confused too!  Red and ginger dogs are hard to see sometimes so the ideal would be a combination of black, tan and some white.

Read more