The pup
Training methods are as variable as handlers and dogs. But the basic principles are fairly straightforward. How you apply them depends greatly on your nature, and the nature of the pup. One thing all trainers agree on - theres no point wasting your time on a badly bred pup. If it hasnt got the working genes - then forget it.
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| Pup at sale waiting for new boss |
Pups start to work at different ages, but you would certainly expect to see some action by 6 months of age. If a dog hadnt shown much interest by 9 months, youd be getting concerned about the costs of keeping it. It would have to be an especially good prospect based on its pedigree to keep it. Check with the breeder incase the strain are late starters, before deciding what to do. It may not be the pup – it could be you! Talk to an experienced dog handler about your concern.
Be wary of pups that will be keen to take on full work by six months. Dont let them, as they can so easily get hurt and scared. This scare may put them off work for an extended period, or forever .
Key points collected from a wide range of handlers:
· Voice tones, petting, touching and feeding are all valuable rewards for a dog. Exploit them fully.
· Dont over-stimulate or tease a pup, or let anyone else do this.
· During a pups early life, keep it fully occupied. Never let it get bored or it will start such bad habits as barking, biting, work shyness and so. Keep it stimulated – but not overstimulated. Give a young pup a slipper or a bone as its own "treasure".
· Keep it where it can see daily happenings. Some trainers prefer a kennel to a run as it means they have to handle it each day to let it off and tie it up.
· Teach a pup its name. This is its alerting signal for life. Always call it when you go to feed it. When it wanders, call its name with a “come-here” command. Use a word and add a whistle if you wish. Give it a big welcome when it comes back to you. Pet it and use its name as much as you can.
· Get the pup used to wearing a light collar. Its tight enough if you can slip one finger between it and the dogs neck. When it accepts this, tie it up for a short period (about 30 minutes/day) on a short chain with a swivel in it. Make sure it cannot slip the collar. Dont use a rope, as it will learn to chew through it and escape.
· Make sure going back to the kennel or being tied up is a happy and positive experience. Be patient if the pup is reluctant. Help it up or provide a step if needed. Dont associate this with feeding, and dont lose your cool and boot it into the kennel.
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| Bonding time after exercise |
· Teach the pup to follow at heel on a lead (check cord about 4m long). Here teach it the "heel" or "get-in" command.
· Teach it the "sit" command by stopping, pressing its hindquarters on the ground while lifting its head. When done correctly - give plenty of praise.
· Some trainers teach the "down" or "lie down" command, simply by stepping on the lead to pull its head down while pushing its back end flat. When done correctly - give plenty of praise. In New Zealand the “stand” command is preferred as the dog stays on its feet and is clearly seen by the sheep.
· Teach the "stand" command. Its probably the most important command - to get the dog to stop and do nothing. Dogs that will not STOP on command cause so many problems with stock.
"Stand" is taught by either raising the pup from the "sit" position, with one hand on its head while the other lifts its belly. Or you can stop as you walk along, go infront of the dog giving the command "stand" or "stand there". With all these commands, use the pups name all the time with positive reinforcement.
· As well as the "stand" you may want to teach a "stay" or "stay there" command. Its probably not necessary but can be useful. A “stay” hand signal can be taught at the same time by holding your hand infront of the pup’s face as you give it. Then walk away backwards saying “stay there Meg”.
"Stand" or "stay" can be very frustrating for a pup that has spent the last few months being in touch contact with you. Now you are going to walk away and leaving it with no company. Naturally it wants to follow to maintain the bond. Be patient as you are moving to reinforce the bond visually from a distance.
· One famous NZ trainer of working dogs and gun dogs used to teach these early commands on a stool (see other blog post) just big enough for the pup to stand or sit on. Once taught how to climb up on the stool from one end, the pup was scared to jump off from such a height. The trainer then taught it to "stay", and over time could move further and further away (in all directions) without the pup moving. At any sign of stress, he went back to reassure the pup.
· Now the "stand" command can be linked to the "come here" command, and the "sit" in any combination. Dont keep the pup in any of these positions for long, and keep the total lessons short, no more than 10 minutes at time, maybe 2-3 times a day.
· When giving pups commands there’s no need to shout and roar! Dogs have very good hearing, and a raised voice should be kept for discipline - otherwise speak quietly. If more discipline is warranted, then use the "shake-praise" trick.
· A pat is adequate reward when training a pup. Dont get involved with methods that rely on food. Its not very practical and one day youll forget the biscuits!
· Dont train a pup by tying it to an older trained dog. Its a great idea that doesnt work! It’s sometimes used by some experts, but for specific problem solving.
House training
In nature a pup learns its hygiene habits from the bitch. They normally keep the den clean and defaecate and urinate outside. Build on this basic instinct when house training.
As soon as the pup wakes up, take it outside on to grass and praise it for performing. Never punish it after an "accident". Keep the pup in a small area in the house to make it realise that the area is its “den” where it will not naturally perform. You can extend this area in time once it is performing outside.
The young keen dog
Keep it keen. Once the dog is into regular light work, here are some general points:
· Establish a regular daily routine and stick to it - unless the dog goes "sour" and won’t work when you’ll have to go back to the beginning.
· Dont exhaust the dog - work it within its physical limits. Work must be fun and enjoyed by the dog. Dont work a dog when you’re feeling tired or in a bad mood.
· Keep a regular routine of commands going, and keep checking proficiency. This helps to strengthen the dog-handler bond. You can put whistles to word commands at any time that suits. Simply give the word command followed by the whistle or vice versa. A good dog will learn very quickly.
Teaching Stop, and Start
Once you have the pup under control so it knows its name and will sit or stand, and then come to you, then let it show its natural instinct with stock. Now is time for some fun- just let it go in a small paddock with some quiet sheep that are used to dogs, and see what happens
The pup may be so keen that it will forget everything that it has learned so far. Dont worry, it will soon pick these commands up again once it has steadied down.
Some very successful trainers dont bother to teach a pup anything until it has started to work stock. They have no problems putting the commands on the pup later. The last thing you want to do at this stage is cramp the pups natural instinct to work. It doesnt matter if its work is a bit rough - just encourage it to keep going. But keep an old dog handy to prevent or clean up any impending disasters - and incase the neighbours may be watching!
Fast heading pups are likely to get into more trouble than huntaways, which are usually more steady. This early working instinct is to chase and go around stock. Make sure the pup can catch whatever it sets out to chase. Here an old dog is useful to help out and guarantee success.
You may need a little bit of encouragement to get the pup to go after stock, especially if you have overdone the initial commands. Border shepherds use a "Sh-sh" sound to alert the pup and excite it to GO. But seeing stock is often enough for a keen pup, but you might have to excite a late starter. Any noise will do as long as it’s different to those already used.
Teaching directions
Here exploit the dogs circling instinct to the full. Dont worry if it keeps going round and round stock at the start. You can stop this by meeting the dog half way round the group, and sending it back in the other direction. Its here where you can teach a "go away" command.
But "go away" is too simple a command, because you’ll inevitably want the dog to either "go right" or "go left" around stock, or "come right" or "come left" back to you. Put these direction commands on the dog while it is at this circling stage with a small group of quiet sheep. A signal with your arm or a stick is useful here too.
Commands to get the dog to go away from you (or cast) can be for example "get away" for circle right, or "get back" to circle left. And then for commands to get the dog to come towards you could be "come away" for one direction or "come bye" for another. Some dog handlers may just use "over" and "back". Remember the dog doesnt speak English - it is responding to sound.
After sheep have been used for a week or so of dog training, they get sick of the whole business and wont go anywhere. They seem to want to jump into the trainers’ arms to get away from the dog. They become too friendly and need to be changed for sheep less man/dog friendly.
A good routine is to get the young dog to start by standing or sitting at your heel. Then making sure it has seen the sheep, cast it on either the right or left hand to gather the sheep. Keep sending it off on each side, as often they may prefer one particular side.
